Travellers' Tales of Old Singapore by Michael Wise

Author:Michael Wise [Wise, Michael]
Language: eng
Format: epub

EDWIN A. BROWN

Indiscreet Memories (1934)

1901

The Four Sultans

Shortly after the death of Queen Victoria, Singapore was visited by the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall and York on their way to Australia. The Duke (later to become King George V) previously visited Singapore as a young naval cadet in 1882 so he had an idea what to expect. But on this occasion, as recorded by one of his staff, he also encountered some quite different styles of royalty.

About 8 o’clock Singapore comes in sight, embedded in evergreens, and we are soon moored alongside a coaling-wharf. As it is Sunday ... the landing takes place in a comparatively quiet, unceremonious way. Their Royal Highnesses, with the members of the staff who happen to be on duty, go round in a steam-launch to Johnston’s Pier, where a decorated landing place has been prepared for them. Here they are received by the principal officials and the leading inhabitants, and drive in an open carriage with a mounted escort to Government House, a charming airy residence built on a bit of rising ground which overlooks the town, and surrounded by a beautiful park of green lawns intersected by red roads. The weather is intensely hot and steamy, but there is a little air moving if one can only find it; and I have the good fortune to be installed in a room on the roof of the house, open to the gentlest breezes that happen to be roaming about, and commanding a magnificent view of the park, the surrounding jungly country, and the harbour.

After lunch the four Sultans of the recently federated Malay States ... come to Government House with a large body of chieftains and retainers to pay their respects to His Royal Highness. It is a picturesque crowd, or rather four picturesque crowds, for each of the groups keeps carefully apart from the others. ... Of the four potentates the most important are the Sultans of Pahang and Perak, both Malays by birth, but with little else in common. The former is a man of the old school, who has carefully preserved the ancient Court costume and Court etiquette, who has never learned a word of English, and who long struggled and intrigued against British influence. Before him march his mace-bearer carrying the golden Chogan, and the principal officers of his household all clad in canary-yellow garments and bearing the golden vessels of state. Behind him come a large body of retainers, armed with krises and spears. A richly gilt umbrella with yellow streamers protects him from the sun and – what is more important – proclaims his Royal rank. His Highness of Perak is less picturesque, but has the reputation of being more intelligent and enlightened, and has always been steadfastly attached to British rule. He wears a bright purple jacket of semi-European cut, a richly decorated forage-cap, and black bell-mouthed trousers of the style generally affected by sailors. When he gets near the house he causes his Royal umbrella to be put

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